The last of the three Leovilles, Leoville Poyferre is the “epitome of St Julien”. While the larger Leoville Las Cases is heavily influenced by its Pauillac roots, and Leoville Barton leans towards Beychevelle, Leoville Poyferre has the silky softness not only coveted in all St. Julien but all Bordeaux wines.

This was not always the case - as with all the Leovilles, it is an 1855 Super Second and considered the best of the trio. But what had once been a superb wine fell into decline post-1945. An absent owner, an uninterested management team and poor equipment meant that the 1970s were rude to the estate, with just 30% of the land producing usable grapes. 1979 saw new ownership and the subsequent arrival of noted Bordeaux wine experts Michel Rolland and Emile Peynaud. Major investments were made, a 19-year replanting programme began, the cellars were renovated and Poyferre began the slow climb back to its former glory. 1982 saw the first Poyferre vintage of note released.

As the replanting took root, the new direction bought more of the surrounding land, bringing it up to the 60-hectare estate it is today. Planted to 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and, because of its difficulty to ripen, just 6% Petit Verdot. Soil is gravelly, with traces of clay, limestone and sand. Because the Château is not actually located on the premises (when the estate was divided with Las Cases, Las Cases gained the premises), the wine is pumped through a system of underground pipes.

2015 was considered a turning point for the wine, perhaps due to the younger team that was brought in at the end of 2004. 2009 saw a perfect 100-point score from the influential wine critic Robert Parker. 2017 was released for Bordeaux wine negociants at just €54 per bottle, for a score of 91-93 from Neal Martin and 95-96 from James Suckling. While recent vintages have yet to reach the excellence of 2009’s offering, the 2017 price is an 18% discount from 2016’s vintage. However, growth is steady with prices rising approximately 50% over 10 years. This is not including the 2009, which shows an unprecedented 93% increase, and is still rising.