There are those that are happy with their lot, and those who always think they could be a bit better. Olympic athletes, film stars, leaders in politics, all these people have striven to be at the top of their game, not content with being second. And then there's Château Mouton Rothschild - like a petulant child, this was one wine that was not giving up until it gained the first growth recognition it believed it ought to have.

So happy was the day when in 1973 it was granted its “rightful” status. The Château immediately changed its motto from Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis. ("First, I cannot be. Second, I do not deign to be. Mouton I am.") to Premier je suis, Second je fus, Mouton ne change. ("First, I am. Second, I used to be. Mouton does not change"). And yet, Mouton Rothschild's second growth rank was not an accident: the château's position was firmly fixed through an active decision of the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, because of its soil, prices and reputation. However, when Baron Philippe de Rothschild took over the estate in 1922, he began his 50-year campaign to correct what he considered the slight on his wine. Unsurprisingly, this opened up a Pandora’s box for other second and even third class growths, which began lobbying for their own promotion. To date, Mouton Rothschild is the only wine to ever have been moved up, and only the third change to have been made to the 1855 classification. The first was in 1856, when Château Cantemerle was added to the fifth growths, the second when Château Dubignon was removed, due to its absorption into estate of Château Malescot St Exupery.

Unsurprisingly, such a pedigree and history does not come cheap. 2017 was released at €4,183 per case, with an average score of 93/100. 2016 scored a little better, an average of 96 (2016 release prices were €5,054 a case). It has been some time however since the wine has been awarded a magic 100, with Robert Parker not giving it the top score since 1986. However, even if the younger vintages (post-2010) are weak, Mouton Rothschild shows consistent returns on investment and is an attractive opportunity.