When thinking about typical French surnames, you do not immediately think “Smith”. Dupont, Moulin, Leroy yes, but Smith tends to be more popular on the other side of the channel. Yet, Château Smith Haut Lafitte is as francais as lingerie and ooh la la.

So, in order to understand le Petit Haut Lafitte, the second wine of this fine domain, we need to do a bit of background on the Grand Vin first. George Smith - a Scot, wine merchant and a sailor - bought the left bank property in 1729, building the lovely chateau that the current owners the Cathiards (of Go Sport fame) reside in today. Fast forward to 1842 when Lodi-Martin Duffour-Dubergier (a fine French name if ever we heard one), mayor of Bordeaux, bought the property, but kept the more prosaic Smith name for ease. It has changed hands at least twice since then, but Smith it remains. The Haut Lafitte is from the gravel plateau first cultivated in 1365 (and known as a Lafitte). And another thing - do not confuse Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte with first growth Lafite Rosthchild, because the Cathiards don’t like that.

The estate is famous for being 100% organic, which is where the beautifully rich depth of fruit comes from. Harvests are done by hand, compost and manure are used as fertiliser and lanes are ploughed by horse. This is no mean feat as the vineyard area of the estate is large: 85 hectares (74ha red, 11ha white) split over 40% first wine and 60% second wine Le Petit Haut Lafitte. The estate also makes a third wine, Les Hauts de Smith, from young vines and specific plots.

Vine whisperer Michel Rolland consults at Smith Haut Lafitte, making it unsurprising then that this second wine is largely as good as many firsts. The same superb precision is given to all of Smith Haut Lafitte’s wine, but it is very telling that over half the estate is destined for Le Petit. The red bursts into opulence in the mouth (there’s something very right bank about it), made usually from a 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot blend. The white - and it should be noted here that Smith Haut Lafitte produces some of the best white in Bordeaux - is an 80/20% blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Both the second wines are vinified as for the Grand Vin.