Chateau de Fieuzal is a wine with a reputation that precedes it. A former favourite of the Pope there was a time in the 18th century that de Fieuzal lined the cellars of the Vatican City. Sadly, that time has gone, but nevertheless, this Bordeaux fine wine takes the meaning of holy spirit to a whole new level.

However, de Fieuzal is far more than fortuitous connections. Terroir-wise it is pure gold. Not only does it enjoy the extremely privileged position on the gentle slopes of Pessac-Leognan, in Graves, it has some of the best soil in Bordeaux (and perhaps the best on the left bank). Fine and gravelly, well-drained and divided by a stream for excellent irrigation, de Fieuzal’s soil is truly blessed.

Just six families have owned the estate since its inception in the 16th century. The de Fieuzal family, after whom the estate is named, are in fact the second owners, after purchasing the estate from the Garderes in the 17th century. But the most notable owners of de Fieuzal’s past would be the Ricards. While the Ricards are most famous for their ubiquitously popular aniseed drink, what many people do not realise is in fact they are a big winemaking family, with years of expertise behind them. At the time of the de Fieuzal purchase, they also owned other fine wine estates in Bordeaux, including Domaine de Chevalier and Malartic-Lagravière. Unsurprisingly, they brought this savoir faire with them to de Fieuzal, and it was under their tenure that the wine was elevated to the stature of Grand Crus Classe de Graves in 1959. The Ricards sold the estate in 1973.

Each family has evidently given the wine a particular stamp and style, from the robust red that Pope Leon XIII was said to enjoy, to the polished and fruity whites that are being produced today. The fourth owners, the Nègrevergnes, increased the vineyards to 30 hectares, while the fifth owners, the Banque Populaire, added the final parcels of land that the Ricards had sold off.

Today the estate is owned by the Quinns, who for 20-years have dedicated themselves to perfecting their product. The very talented Stephen Carrier has clearly defined de Fieuzal’s identity, particularly the white, and the addition of superstar consultant - and owner of Chateau Angelus - Hubert de Bouard has only raised the wine’s profile even higher. Today, expect a well-structured and concentrated fine wine (both the red and white) that scores well, serves well and saves even better.