“Each and every wine at this Domaine was a first-rate example of its terroir, from the Bourgogne to the Grands Crus. The meticulous work of Serge Groffier (Robert’s son) in the vineyards is evidenced by each glass of nectar from this well-known and certainly soon-to-be-famous domaine.” Written 17 years ago, the noted wine critic Pierre-Antoine Rovani, must have had a crystal ball in his hands as Groffier has gone from strength to strength in the past two decades. Astonishingly, Rovani was writing on behalf of Robert Parker, who at the time was particularly vocal in his dislike of Burgundy (Parker has since apologised to the entire region, blaming it on his “blunt, very direct French”).

To taste, all six (two Grand Crus, three Premier Crus) of the appellations are powerful, with a clean but complex structure and good, deep colour. The Pinot Noir tannins allow the wines to age well, meaning even the Gevrey-Chambertin (approximately €81 a bottle for the 90 point 2017 vintage) shows outstanding quality and should comfortably age for 10 - 20 years for Premier Crus (various vintages) and up to 28 years for Grand Cru such as the 2012 Clos de Beze, or 35 years for the 2015 Bonnes Mares. However, it is the poetically named Cuvee Les Amoureuses Premier Cru that is the jewel in Groffier’s crown. A bottle of 2017 could today be picked up for around €407 and if current market data is to be believed expect that to rise by 50% in the next 10 years. Lesser vintages such as the 2011 should still age superbly, but should only cost around two-thirds of that price in Europe at least. The 2016 could be considered one of the best vintages in the past 10 years.

The estate is today run by “young” Nicolas Groffier, Robert’s grandson. Under his direction, wines are aged in new barrels only and show superior precision and vigour. Nicolas himself considers 2016 a very classic balanced vintage “that reminds me of 2013, with a touch of the generosity of 2014.” A perfect example of when everything falls into place, this standard of Burgundy is a rare and good thing.