Visitors to Mark Haisma’s website will be greeted with a very straightforward message. Seven sentences (plus a cheery “Cheers!” at the end) that begin with “To get my wines it is very simple…” then, as announced, a straightforward list of what will happen, when and how. In keeping with the wines he makes, Mark - and his wines - are “lively and with focus. Quite lovely”.

An Aussie immigrant, Mark arrived in Burgundy in 2009, and has been making wine ever since. Part of a new breed of young men and women who are drawn to Burgundy’s terroir in order to make wine that reflects the purity of the grape, Mark is leading the way with the vineyards that he manages and harvests but doesn’t own. “Mark Haisma’s wines have an excellent balance between fruit, expression and refreshment without being in any way wimpish. The wines are also, appetisingly, bone dry.” That was from Jancis Robinson in 2012 and his wines have continued their ascension at an astonishing rate.

So just how has a 46-year old man from Down Under and former winemaker at Yarra Yering come to rival some of the oldest domaines in Burgundy? Well, the answer could be the extreme care and attention that he gives when crafting his wine. “My winemaking has always sought to capture freshness and play on the aromatics of the grapes I work with. Power, structure, indefinite ageing, black colours are not my thing”, Haisma explains. The complete opposite from many of his contemporaries, Haisma has proved that there is a place for everyone in the “old boys club”. So much so that Tim Atkin named him one of the 25 winemakers to watch.

With 17 appellations and an annual production of 12,000 bottles, Mark has “struck gold” (again, high praise from the high priestess Jancis Robinson). His wines are difficult to get your hands on, perhaps because of their reasonable pricing - €20 for the Bourgogne Aligoté 2015 up to €273 for the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2015. The Grand Cru in particular may well go up in value as it is the last vintage made by Haisma; the vineyard parcel has been sold.