Wine Guide
Domaine Georges Noëllat
There are certain properties which are considered a sure thing in the complex landscape of Pinot Noir. Preceded by its reputation, Domaine Georges Noëllat is one of those things. And when it comes to viticultural royalty, Domaine manager Maxime Cheurlin (who was just 20 when he took over running of the estate in 2010), is the best there is is.
A perfect DNA
Georges Noëllat, Maxime’s great grandfather and nephew of famous viticulturist Charles Noellat, started his career by buying up small parcels of prime Pinot Noir terroir wherever he could. Managed for 18 years by George’s wife then daughter after his death in 1982, the domaine was leased to Jadot and Drouhin for 20 years in 1990. However, ambition not to mention a sterling Burgundy wine heritage (Cheurlin is a nephew of both the Jayer and Rouget families) goes a long way and despite being fresh out of high school, Cheurlin took over running the estate with aplomb worthy of his pedigree. Fast forward nine years and today he is considered one of the best Pinot Noir producers worldwide. If such laudations are true at just 29, think what beauties he will be able to produce with a few more years experience.
Small - but perfectly formed
Today the estate is small - just 5.5 hectares (two Grands Crus, three Premiere Crus plus two others), but my goodness does it pack a punch! Under Cheurlin’s guidance, vinification has been slowed down, and this seems to have added precision and definition to the wines. Now in his ninth year, his wines are considered elegant, understated and impeccably well-crafted. Prices are still relatively low (pre-Cheurlin wines are good drinkers but not worth much as a portfolio investment), although prices are rising, think €100 per bottle in 2019 vs. €75 in 2017 for the same vintage. The stunning 2012 Vosne-Romanee, Cote de Nuits was up +50% from May 2017 to January 2019. For those who like to benchmark, the average price for a Pinot Noir from Vosne-Romanee was €70 in January 2019.
Notable facts and vintages
- Jancis Robinson proclaimed “Domaine Georges Noëllat in Vosne-Romanee is a domaine reawakened” - vintages steadily improving since Maxime Cheurlin’s appointment in 2010.
- Cheurlin’s 2014 Grands Crus are performing particularly well with 97 points awarded to their Echezeaux (“Such a gorgeous wine but so little of it”) and the Grands Echezeaux, “a serious grand Cru of great potential” by MW Tim Atkin.
- Prices have climbed +17% in the year since May 2018, suggesting more growth potential to accompany its ageability: Wine Advocate’s William Kelley is keen “to follow its evolution over the coming decade” and awarded 2016’s Vosne les Beaumonts 93 points in early 2019, while Allen Meadows suggested “at least some bottle age before it could be reasonably approachable” awarding 91-94 points in January 2018.