Certain things are made in the image of their maker. And Domaine Hubert Lignier’s classic collection of 24 Burgundy fine wines are such a thing. Gentle, understated and unhurried, Laurent Lignier (Hubert’s son) produces wine so smooth, you could spread it on toast.

With Burgundy fine wines there are rarely certainties. Yet, all rules have exceptions and Hubert Lignier is perhaps it: both reds and whites rarely hit a wrong note. Long known for their concentration, depth and structure, the vintages have gained in purity and elegance since Laurent took over his father’s domaine in 2006. Located in the village of Morey Saint Denis (population 683) the Lignier’s parcels are mostly in Gevrey Chambertin and Chambolle Musigny although under Laurent’s stewardship they have recently expanded into Nuits Saint Georges and Pommard.

A bold statement on their website claims that their 24 wines can be defined by “bringing pleasure, sometimes emotions, but never taste alike”. Every vintage shows signs of improvement: organically farmed since the early 1990s (with the introduction of organic protective treatments in 2011), Laurent has injected a lightness of touch and equilibrium to his father's estate. Wines consistently score across the board in the high 80s on aggregate scores. The 2010 Grand Cru Cote de Nuit Clos de la Roche Morey scored 93 from noted wine website The Cellar Review. Priced significantly higher than other Pinot Noirs of the same vintage at around €404 vs. €307 a bottle, this same vintage took an unexpected dip in 2018 and lost almost ⅓ of its value in six months. Again, this might be the exception that makes the rule as wines are rising in value overall, the 2015 Grands Crus showing particular signs of successful growth.