How do you explain the unexplainable? The answer lies in the Domaine Dugat-Py. Systematically called “the true essence of Pinot Noir” this is a wine that has known to reduce grown men and women to tears. “(Bernard Dugat Py’s) Pinot Noirs touch the grace and perfection of God”, says one rather enthusiastic fan. Perhaps that might be going a little too far, but by all accounts, it is a magnificent example of the great terroir of Gevrey-Chambertin.

So where do we begin with such an accolade? Both press and consumers agree that Dugat Py’s Pinot Noir is something special. Reminiscent of the kind of wine produced pre-1960s, even modern day vintages have a very dark colour associated with winemaking of the past. This in no way means Dugat Py is old fashioned, in fact, it is very much the opposite. "Very natural and non-interventionist" is how Bernard describes his style, both of which are buzzwords in the current biodynamic methodology. He leaves the wine alone to make itself, uses only naturally occurring yeast and includes the use of stems during fermentation to soften the tannins, again very much considered a “modern” technique today.

Known for its shallow limestone terroir, Gevrey-Chambertin produces forceful rich wines that are underpinned by delicacy. However, the great Burgundian soil is only part of Dugat Py’s appeal - the quality and age of the vines (up to 65 years in some cases) give the wine their superior taste and ageing ability. The domaine produces twenty red wines (four Grand Crus, seven Premier Crus and nine Villages) and five whites. The deep (very deep) roots of the family and vineyard date back to the 17th century. The father-son duo who are currently at the helm of the vineyard is the 12th and 13th generation of Dugats. So to say that the wine flows through their veins is something of a poetic understatement.

However, despite a legion of devotees, Dugat Py divides critics. The wines score very highly at blind tasting (Robert Parker scored 97 points for the 2001 and 96 points for the 2015), yet there is little evidence that collectors have begun to think of Dugat Py for their cellars. Estate bottling started only in 1989, limiting representation of earlier vintages. Over the past decade, the wines have been gaining popularity, undoubtedly in part due to Bernard’s reputation as “one of the shrewdest winemakers on the Cote”. Parker’s influence has generated cross-Atlantic interest in newer vintages.

Domaine Dugat-Py Chambertin Grand Cru commands high prices, around €2,130 in Q3 2019

• 2013 vintage awarded 19/20 by Jancis Robinson, and 20/20 from La Revue du Vin de France
• 2012 vintage awarded 98 points by The Wine Advocate

Domaine Dugat-Py Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru global prices average around €620 in Q3 2019

• 2014 vintage awarded 18/20 by Jancis Robinson, and 20/20 from La Revue du Vin de France
• 2012 vintage recommended drinking window from 2022-2037 received a barrel score of 95-97 from Vinous’s Antonio Galloni, and 98 points from Robert Parker Wine Advocate