The cool-climate region of Bourgogne (aka Burgundy) has championed site-specific wines of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay since the middle ages. Home to many a famous label (we’re looking at you Ravineau and Dauvissat), it’s no surprise that some of the best white wines produced in the world come from here; cue Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Perhaps “the most gifted white wine producer in Burgundy”, Lafond has very few rivals to his Chardonnay crown.

Despite its superstar status, Dominique Lafond has only relatively recently elevated his vineyard to giddy heights. The estate originally dates from 1860, founded by Jules Lafon, whose “comte” title was awarded to him by the Pope for refusing to use his position at the public registry office to force the Catholic church to declare their wealth to the state. However, despite the domaine being known to produce some outstanding Chardonnay (Lafon’s Le Genevrieres, Meursault 1981, and Lafon’s Montrachet 1966 are fantastic examples - both named in Decanter’s list of “100 Wines to Try Before You Die”), the quality was erratic. En Primeur purchases were low and it looked likely that the estate would be sold. Enter Dominique's father in the mid-1950s, Rene, followed by Dominique himself in the late 1980s.

Today, Dominique oversees 16.3 hectares for 15 different appellations. But, do not be fooled by the name on the label, some of his village wines (think of the Chardonnays Desiree and Chaumes de Narveaux) are as good as many Premieres Crus, and could easily be granted official appellation should Lafond wish. Excellent value for money upon release (around €40 a bottle for 2016), these village wines can gain as much as 60% in 2 years, much more if the appellation changes to Premiere Cru. But Lafon is more than a perfectionist - if it’s not good enough for him, it’s not good enough for us.

The Montrachet Grand Cru, grown from 50-year-old vines neighbouring the mighty Romanee-Conti terroir is in phenomenal demand. Just 125 bottles are produced annually and investment growth shoots up literally overnight. Take for example the 1992 vintage that would have had a release price of around €230 - expensive at the time - and was selling weeks after on the open market at €600. In 2019, a single bottle of the same vintage is close to €3,400.