When a wine is described by wine demi-god Robert Parker as being “the most prized wine in my personal collection”, you know you are in for a treat. Talking about the 1990 vintage, Parker threw the spotlight on a brand that had so far let the wine speak for itself. Terrifically publicity shy, notoriously difficult to track down and really quite spectacular, Château Rayas deserves its iconic status.

Formerly owned by renowned recluse Louis Reynaud (today managed by Louis’ equally idiosyncratic nephew Emmanuel) Château Rayas is one of the wine world’s great mysteries. More to the point, Louis Reynaud was one of the wine world’s more mysterious men. Wine merchant Simon Lofttus tells of how he had an appointment for a tasting only to find the Château shuttered up with no signs of life. As he began to take his leave, he saw Reynaud climbing out from a ditch where he had hidden so as not to meet him. Others have similar stories. His answerphone famously, firmly stated, “don’t leave a message, as I won't listen to it”. If, by divine intervention, you are actually granted a tour of the winery, get all ideas of swish architect-designed cellars out of your mind - expect uneven floors, ancient equipment and layers and layers of dust.

Whether this shroud of secrecy is on purpose or simply a fantastic marketing ploy (we believe the former), it’s immaterial, as Rayas’ wines do all the talking. Château Rayas is only sold in tiny quantities, with one negociant for each international market. Entry level wines, even in non-vintage years are upwards of €500 and on the rare occasions that the wine scores low on points, prices are not affected. The combination of low production, illustrious fan base and high quality means only thing: an upward year-on-year price trend.

Parker’s fabled 1990 cost around €60 upon release, whereas today you'd be looking at upwards of €1,500 in Europe, or (€2,000 in Asia) so suffice to say that this is a wine worth waiting for. The twin great vintages of 1978/79 and 1989/90 "cemented an already-great reputation in the minds of a generation of fine wine enthusiasts. But 1945, 1949, 1955, 1961, the usual suspects, all helped cement a reputation which goes back to the late 19th Century". Basically, if you can find it, buy it- either as a drink or as an investment, this is one wine you won’t regret.