Wine Guide
Regions
Napa Sonoma
Regions
USA fine wine
It is a little known fact that the USA is the world fourth largest wine producing country, behind France, Italy and Spain. Producer of one of the world’s most expensive wines (a six-litre 1992 Screaming Eagle sold in 2000 for a staggering $500,000, bucking the trend that wine had to be old to be expensive), just Californian alone is responsible for 250 million cases annually and makes up for 90% of the country’s production. So if you have not considered California in your collection until now, you’re missing out.

While vines are found in every state (yes, even Alaska), the Mediterranean climate of the “Golden State” the most apt for winemaking. Its history could almost (almost) rival France’s in that California has winemaking roots that stretch back to the 17 th century, brought into the country by enterprising Franciscan missionaries. Construction began in the late 19 th century for a research centre (what is now the famous Davis campus at the University of California). However, prohibition struck and what were prized vineyards were ripped out and replacedwith arable. It would take a group of enterprising young winemaking and another 50-plus years before Californian wine would get its mojo back.

One of those men is undoubtedly Robert Mondavi, a man who is credited not only in regenerating America’s fine wine industry but also educating millions of Americans on the benefits of good wine. An advocate of planting star grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, that state has moved on since then and now you can find varietals of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay as well as a number of Rhône varieties, too.

The state can be divided into realistically just two regions, Napa Valley and Sonoma (there eight other regions but they have yet to produce a fine wine worth investing in. Curious collectors can of course pick up a bottle of Malibu Cabernet Sauvignon or San Diego Pinot Noir at any decent wine merchant). Napa, north of San Francisco is of course home to many a famous winery (and stamping ground of Mondovi), while Sonoma, north of Napa offers a much slower slice of viticultural life.
Napa
Clearly the king of the Californian wine scene, Napa is the people choice when it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon. Other varieties include Merlot, Chardonnay Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Charbono for red wines and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Muscat, Viognier for white grapes but in general, if you say Napa, you probably mean Cabernet Sauvignon.

Napa’s history began in 1840 when pioneers George Calvert Yount, John Patchett and Hamilton Walker Crabb introduced the first vitis vinifera grapes to the area. News spread and by 1861 Charles Krug had opened a winery, generating great interest (not to mention jobs) in the area. By the late 19th century, Napa had over 140 wineries, including the very famous Inglenook vineyard (founded in 1879). However, not having the savoir-faire nor the equipment of the Europeans, the early 20 th century saw a turn in tides: a glut of grapes that nobody wanted, phylloxera that nobody knew how to combat and prohibition meant that just 10% of the original wineries were left, operating solely for sacramental wine purposes. Recovery was slow; the Mondovi family purchased the ex-Krug winery, John Daniel Jr. resurrected Inglenook and, realising that they were much stronger together than alone, the seven key figures of the Valley created the Napa Valley Vintners (which now stands at 550 members). Napa’s status as a world leader was established when French judges awarded a Napa wine – a 1973 Stag’s Leap – at the Judgement de Paris in 1976, beating Bordeaux by a long shot. From then on, the only way was up for USA fine wine.
Sonoma
Napa may be the headline-grabbing valley of California but you would be remiss to ignore Sonoma County when developing your fine wine portfolio. Located about an hour north of San Francisco, Sonoma’s vast and varied terrain can only mean good things for the closet oenologist. With 17 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) stretching across 20 miles, Sonoma’s valleys and microclimates means it is possible to sip a rosé at a hipster winemaker’s home, taste a Zinfandel while on a production warehouse tour, sample Chardonnay straight from the barrel in an underground cave, or enjoy Pinots during a private vertical tasting.

Located between the Pacific Ocean and Napa, Sonoma silently produces almost twice as much wine as Napa, yet generates not even half as many column inches. While there are no big ticket wineries here, what Sonoma does incredibly well is produce a consistent level of excellent full-bodied red wine. Temperate and climate vary from sun-beaten plains to fog-laden hills, which accounts for the spectrum of wines available on the secondary market or with your fine wine retailer.

Established by Franciscan friars while on a mission in 1823, the Sonoma County wine industry was originally destined for communion wine. Suffering the same fate as its Napa neighbours during the early 20 th century, the region’s winemaking declined to fewer than 50 wineries. Sonoma was slower to pick up the gauntlet laid down by Mondovi et al post-prohibition and even as late as 1960, there were under 50km2 of planted vineyard in the valley. However, as wine consumption grew in the 1970s, so did enterprising winemakers and by 1999 Sonoma Country had 180 registered wineries. In 2019 that figure stood at 250, over half of which have been established in the last 25 years.

However, devastating forest fires in the autumn of 2017 saw many estates and vineyards completely disappear. Propelled by 60mph winds, the flames swallowed more than 2450,000 acres of land and claimed 43 lives. 1,200 wineries were damaged (although only under ten severely) which means a reduced production for the years to come. The smoke will, of course, affect other Californian wineries, regardless of whether they were damaged by the fires or not. Several Sonoma County vineyards including Ancient Oak Cellars and Helena View Johnson were hit hard, worse than neighbouring Napa (although Stag’s Leap was affected), mainly due to Napa’s wetter soil that made it hard for the flames to stick.

Rebuilding has been an arduous process for the wineries, many of whom lost homes in the process. However, almost two years on and slowly but surely the wineries are getting back on their feet. Some have carried on producing with bought in grapes and while others are commemorating the year with special cuvees which will, we suspect, turn out to be very investor friendly in years to come.