Винный справочник
Egon Müller
Proudly wearing the crown of Germany’s - and in certain cases the World’s - most expensive wine,
Egon Muller has something to smile about. Often reaching stratestrophic prices at auction, it
could be said that when it comes to Riesling, Egon has nothing to “wine” about.
A family of Egons
A wine dynasty since 1797, the current Egon Muller is Egon Muller IV, and the
great-great-grandson of Egon Müller I. Like many other properties in the Saar region, the land
was previously owned by the clergy, and it was only upon the dissolution of several Napoleonic
laws did the land come up for sale. Thus in the late 18th century, the Mullers became landowners
- and winemakers to boot. Egon the 4th took over from Egon the 3rd (his father) in 1991.
The best wines of their decade
Muller’s success is threefold. One; his eight hectares of slate soil at between 190 and 310
metres of altitude means superb drainage. Two; the south-facing slopes allow for lengthy
ripening, which in turn underscores the wine with the fine perfume. Three; Muller’s finesse as a
winemaker has seduced both critics and connoisseurs the world over. However, as much as one
loves the current Egon (there are also two brothers called Egon, both bankers), he is really
just building on his father’s foundations. Having returned from the war in 1945, Egon the 3rd
set to restoring the family property, and begun replanting. This was when the magic happened.
Several momentous vintages followed: the 1949, the 1951 (the year Egon IV was born), the 1971
and the 1983 are likely the best (ergo, most expensive) wines of their decade. They are
certainly the best Rieslings.
Germany’s most expensive wine
It will not come as a surprise then that even entry level wines are expensive. But equally, merited - fabulous aging along with the superb reputation means a bottle of Egon Müller-Scharzhof, Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (perhaps the 2017?) will be the greatest addition you’ll ever make to your wine portfolio. You’ll need deep pockets though; in Q2 2019 prices were over €16,500 a bottle, and set to rise.
Notable facts and vintages
- Auslese Goldkapsel is produced only in the best vintages. Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein are also produced if conditions permit.
- Despite the vineyards being classified as Grosses Gewachs, the wines they produce may not be labelled as such due to the residual sugars which tend to present in Muller’s Spatlese and Auslese.
- A three-bottle lot of 1990 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese sold for €3,552 at auction/Sotheby’s NY - well above the 900 - 1,300 USD (approx €806 to €1,164) estimate.