In a day when everything is documented; your sister’s meal is on instagram, Google selects advertisements based on your browsing history and even Karl Lagerfeld’s cat is considered “an influencer”, it comes as a very welcome surprise to find an unsung hero. Quietly making quality Riesling wines for over 150 years in their native Deidesheim, no fuss Reichsrat von Buhl is a breath of fresh air.

The family owned vineyard was established in 1849, and the wine enjoyed considerable success in the late 19th century; composer Felix Mendelssohn was a fan, it was served to dignitaries at the opening of the Suez canal (thus becoming one of the most expensive wines in the world) and it was German Chancellor Otto von Bismarck’s favourite Riesling. However, poor management, two world wars and economic difficulties meant the estate began failing and the 200-hectares were scaled back to just 52. Enter the quixotic Adim Niederberger who purchased the estate in its entirety in 2013. Sadly Niederberger died the same year, but the grass roots of change had already begun; and the timeless Riesling was on its way to once again being a stalwart among wines.

Much of the modern-era success that Von Buhl has enjoyed could be put down to two men: managing director Richard Grosche and technical director Mathieu Kauffmann. Together they have awakened this sleeping giant. They have added the modern touch; they are certified organic, have dramatically reduced yields and farm biodynamically.

To put it simply, the new Grosche/Kauffmann team are nailing it. Kauffmann has brought his 12 years of experience at Bollinger to Von Buhl and launched the wines to a whole new level. Von Buhl’s nine whites and one red offer a staggering scope: from as little as €5 a bottle for the lush 2017 Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Halbtrocken to the €1,549 (April 2019) 1893 Reichsrat von Buhl Deidesheimer Muhl & Geheu Riesling. Virtually undrinkable, this latter wine retains investor interest year after year.